Rear picture of S-10 frame: Rear cross members of original S-10 frame had to be replaced in order to clear
the body. I intend to tow with my Henry so you will note the hitch.
I used an after market 15 gallon tank from "Tanks" which has the filler tube
in the right location to allow the use of the original fender hole for the
gas filler tube. Picture of Rear end and gas line: The electric fuel pump has to be positioned below the gas tank which led to this
configuration. The rims are 8 X 15 and tires are 10 inches wide at their widest.
This is the largest tire I could fit under the rear quarters without cutting.
Picture of transmission: The cross member supporting the transmission is out of a 4 WD S-10. The 2 WD cross member is "S" shaped requiring the exhaust pipe to be routed above the cross member on the left side and under the cross member on the right. I like having both pipes running on top of the cross member. You will also note that the "ear" on the left side of the transmission that holds the dust pan was removed in order to make room for the exhaust pipe. It was just a matter of re-drilling and tapping a hole in the tranny flange and making a slight mod to the dust cover. The right side clears fine as is. Picture of front: I made VW Bug type bumper bars for the front. You will also note the radiator support frame I had to fabricate. I tapered the front of the frame to narrow the openings. Front angle picture: I removed the original S-10 body to frame mounts and re-positioned them to accept the Henry body. Picture of frame: Body mounts can be clearly seen in this picture. I made pieces out of ¼ inch steel to help support the pan above the mounts. Rear quarter picture: Another shot of the hitch and bracket that will support my continental kit. This bracket came with my continental kit and was made to fit a Henry J frame. I ended up remaking these pieces in order to properly align my rear bumper with the S-10 frame. In fact every bracket required for the continental kit had to be re-made in order to fit an S-10 rim! Firewall picture: I tried to keep from cutting my firewall but I ended up moving the center section back 2 inches. You will also note that I modified the front braces that attach the body to the frame. I consider these braces essential as the pan will "oil can" and cause the body to sag on the frame without these braces. I also mounted a centerline Hershmann radio antenna. Looks simple enough except that it interferes with the electric wiper motor so the mounting bracket under the dash for the motor had to be modified. Firewall picture: I ground my welds and finished the upper section of the firewall but resisted grinding the rest. This car will be a driver, not a show car. You will also note that I made and attached reinforcement pieces to the firewall where the body mounts are attached. Inside floor picture: Nothing like a shinny floor to lower your center of gravity and hopefully the db level. I estimate I have 50 lbs of Dynamat in the car. Dash picture: The original radio face plate was MADE for Vintage Air!! I used it to mount my control panel and two center vents. I made under dash mounts for the outside vents out of billet aluminum. You will also note that I was able to retain the original emergency brake handle and, although it is not clearly visible, I was able to retain the mounting position on the firewall. I had to cut the floor mat along the demarcation seam separating the floor from the firewall in order to get it to fit my recessed firewall. I noted in the slides I sent last year that I was attempting to keep from cutting and raising the center hump but I ended up raising the hump by an inch. I cut the hump along both sides beginning at a position under the seat and continuing to the firewall. I then welded a pie shaped piece of metal in place. Because I followed the natural contour of the hump the end result led to the center of the hump bowing up a little which meant the actual spacer needed to raise the hump by an inch at it's center only had to be about ½ inch at it's widest point on the sides. This was critical in order to ensure the floor mat still reached the door sills. Also please note that I am using original upholstery. The kick panels were made from extra pieces I was able to locate through various vendors and eBay. I mounted two Kaiser interior door pillar lights on the kick panels for interior lighting. Picture of dash: Nothing to add except that finding a place to mount my radio is going to be a challenge. The space below the air condition counsel is not deep enough to accommodate a radio because of the recessed firewall. I am leaning toward mounting the radio below the air condition vent to the left of the steering column. Dash picture: As previously discussed, I mounted an electric windshield wiper in the original location (with mods to accommodate the antenna) and was able to use the original control knob. The combination of the wiper, dash speakers, and a recessed firewall has made for a tight fit. Ceiling insulation picture: I ran Dynamat down the center of the ceiling and for additional heat protection I covered everything with ¼ inch aluminum faced foam. Picture of underside of rear cargo section: The spare tire well had to be removed because of the S-10 frame. I fabricated a cross brace to replace the original. It was made slightly deeper than the original in order to match up to the frame. The original brace also butted up against the spare tire well so by removing the well I was able to run a brace the full width of the body. Picture of right side floor pan and rocker panel: I resisted grinding my welds (it's a driver!!) and just used seam sealer. Please note that I reinforced the pan in the same locations as the original. Again, this is critical in order to limit the "oil can" effect when mounting the body to the frame. Picture of the left underside of body pan: Nothing to add! Picture of body ready for final mounting: I am the second owner of the car. My dad bought it for me from a neighbor during my college years so I knew the first owner. I kept the car inside for the past 30 years so the original paint (what is left of it) buffed out fairly well. I can't bring myself to repaint the car and cover all that "good" original paint (factory paint runs and all). The car is now back on the frame and I am putting it back together for the last time. I hope to have it on the road this summer. More to follow!! |
